What Do I Do If...?

1
Shut off your main water supply immediately. Your main shutoff is typically near the water meter — in the basement, crawl space, or outside near the foundation. Turn it clockwise until it stops.
2
Turn off your water heater. Once the main is off, turn your water heater to "pilot" (gas) or shut off the breaker (electric) to prevent damage from heating without water.
3
Open a faucet to release pressure. Open a cold water faucet on the lowest floor to drain remaining water from the lines and reduce pressure.
4
Move valuables and use towels or buckets to contain water while you wait for help. Document damage with photos for insurance.
5
Call or text Brian at (314) 620-4809. He can talk you through next steps immediately, even outside business hours.

Brian's Note

"Know where your main shutoff is before an emergency happens. Walk your house right now and find it. That one piece of knowledge can save thousands in water damage."

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1
Check your circuit breaker (electric) or pilot light (gas). A tripped breaker or extinguished pilot is often the cause and is something you may be able to reset yourself.
2
Check the age of your water heater. Most tank water heaters last 10–12 years. If yours is older, repair may not be the best investment.
3
Listen for rumbling or popping sounds from the tank — this usually indicates heavy sediment buildup and is a sign the heater is near end of life.
4
Check for water pooling around the base. A leak from the tank means the unit needs to be replaced — not repaired.
5
Call Brian. He can often give you a diagnosis over the phone and get to you quickly.

Brian's Note

"I get this call a lot. Half the time it's a tripped breaker or a pilot that went out — an easy fix. The other half the heater is just done. Either way, call me and I'll tell you honestly what you're looking at."

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1
Stop using water in the affected area immediately. Running more water into a backed-up drain will cause overflow.
2
If it's just one fixture, it's likely a localized clog. Avoid chemical drain cleaners — they can damage pipes and don't solve the root problem.
3
If multiple fixtures are backing up simultaneously, it's a main line issue. Don't use any plumbing in the home until it's cleared.
4
If sewage is backing up into tubs or floor drains, this is urgent. Avoid contact with the water and call immediately.
5
Call Brian. Main line clogs need professional equipment — not a plunger or a store-bought snake.

Brian's Note

"When sewage comes back up through a floor drain or tub, that's your main line telling you it's completely blocked. That's the call to make immediately — don't run any water in the house."

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1
Turn on the affected faucet slightly. Running water — even a trickle — helps melt the ice and relieves pressure in the pipe.
2
Apply gentle heat to the frozen section if you can access it — a hair dryer, heating pad, or warm towels work well. Never use an open flame.
3
Know where your main shutoff is. If the pipe bursts when it thaws, you need to be able to shut off water immediately.
4
If you can't locate or access the frozen pipe, call Brian. Attempting to thaw a pipe you can't see can cause more damage.
5
After the crisis, insulate exposed pipes in crawl spaces and unheated areas to prevent it from happening again.

Brian's Note

"Missouri winters catch people off guard. If temps are dropping below 20°F and you have pipes in an unheated crawl space or exterior wall, let a faucet drip overnight. It's cheap insurance."

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1
Remove the tank lid and press down on the flapper valve at the bottom of the tank. This stops water from flowing into the bowl immediately.
2
Turn off the shutoff valve behind the toilet — it's on the wall near the floor. Turn clockwise until it stops. This cuts water supply to the toilet.
3
Don't flush again until the blockage is cleared.
4
Try a plunger if the water level stabilizes. Use a flange plunger (the one with the extended rubber cup) for best results on a toilet.
5
If the blockage doesn't clear or the toilet continues to act up, call Brian — it may be a deeper line issue.

Brian's Note

"Most toilet overflows are caused by a simple clog and can be resolved with a good plunger. But if it's happening repeatedly or multiple fixtures are affected, it's your main line — not the toilet itself."

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1
Identify where the leak is coming from. A drip from the pressure relief valve (the pipe on the side) is different from a leak at the base of the tank — and they mean different things.
2
If water is pooling at the base of the tank, the tank itself has failed. Turn off the cold water supply to the heater (the valve on top or above the unit) and turn the heater to pilot or off.
3
If the leak is from a fitting or pipe connection, this may be repairable. Don't attempt to tighten connections on a live unit yourself.
4
Protect the floor and surrounding area with towels while you wait for service.
5
Call Brian. A leaking water heater tank almost always means replacement — he can usually give you a price estimate over the phone.

Brian's Note

"A drip from the T&P relief valve usually means pressure or temperature is too high — that valve is doing its job but the underlying issue needs to be fixed. A wet floor under the tank means the tank itself has rusted through. That's a replacement."

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1
Check if it's one fixture or the whole house. Low pressure at a single faucet is usually a clogged aerator — unscrew the tip and clean it. Whole-house pressure drop is a different problem.
2
Check your main shutoff valve to make sure it's fully open. A partially closed valve is a surprisingly common cause of pressure issues.
3
Check with a neighbor to see if they're having the same issue — if so, it's a municipal supply problem, not your plumbing.
4
Look for signs of a hidden leak — unexplained wet spots in the yard, water stains on walls or ceilings, or a meter that runs when everything is off.
5
Call Brian if the pressure drop is sudden and whole-house — it may indicate a leak in your main line or a failing pressure-reducing valve.

Brian's Note

"Sudden whole-house pressure loss is a red flag. It could be a PRV failure or a main line leak. Either one needs attention. Gradual pressure loss over months is usually scale buildup in older pipes."

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1
Do not turn any switches on or off. Even a light switch can create a spark.
2
Leave the building immediately. Don't stop to gather belongings.
3
Leave the door open as you exit to help ventilate.
4
Call your gas company from outside or a neighbor's phone. Laclede Gas (Spire): 1-800-887-4173. Do not re-enter the building.
5
Call 911 if you believe the situation is dangerous or you can't reach the gas company.

Brian's Note

"Gas leaks are not a plumbing call first — they're an emergency services call first. Get out, call Spire, let them shut it off and clear the building. Then call me to help with any plumbing-side repairs once it's safe."

1
Run water in infrequently used drains. Floor drains, basement sinks, and guest bathroom drains can have dry P-traps — the water seal that blocks sewer gas. Running water for 30 seconds usually fixes this.
2
Check toilet bases for cracks or a failed wax ring — these are a common source of sewer odor in bathrooms.
3
Check cleanout caps in the basement or crawl space to make sure they're tight. A missing or cracked cap lets sewer gas directly into the home.
4
If the smell persists after running drains, the issue may be a cracked drain line, a failed vent stack, or a broken wax ring — all requiring professional diagnosis.
5
Call Brian to track down the source. Sewer gas isn't just unpleasant — prolonged exposure to hydrogen sulfide can be a health concern.

Brian's Note

"Dry P-traps are the most common cause and the easiest fix — just run some water. But if you've done that and the smell is still there, it needs to be tracked down. Don't just mask it with air freshener."

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Common Plumbing Emergencies

Still Not Sure What To Do?